A review of a honeymoon

Reading Colette in Colette’s Room

By Pete Schulte
Photos by Miki Schulte

Miki and I had a literary-themed wedding replete with stacks of books as centerpieces, old typewriters as props, card catalogs, and other  touches of the written word in one form or another. We followed the blessed event with a literary-themed honeymoon to Portland, Oregon, and then later to the Sylvia Beach Hotel on the high cliff sands above the Pacific Ocean.

View of the Sylvia Beach Hotel from the water

The real Sylvia Beach was a famous American ex-patriot bookseller living in Paris during the WWI and WWII years. Her bookstore, Shakespeare and Company, first published James Joyce’s Ulysses, and was home away from home to such literary luminaries as Ernest Hemingway, Gertrude Stein, D.H. Lawrence, and many others.

Sylvia Beach Hotel through the fog

At the Sylvia Beach Hotel, each room is named and decorated after a famous writer. Miki would have loved to stay in the J.K. Rowling room, where Harry Potter’s dorm room appeared to contain every magical detail described in the book and put to film. That said, she probably would’ve been too excited to sleep. Instead, we stayed in the Colette room, which was decorated in the Parisian style of the Belle Epoque and included many photos of Colette and her various cats. Speaking of cats, they also live at hotel. You may not even notice though, as they seem to blend into the background of stacks of books and old furniture. Our problem, though it wasn’t much of a problem, was that neither Miki nor myself had ever read Colette. Luckily the room was filled with books by her or about her, and we were even able to purchase a couple of paperbacks at a nice little bookshop just down the street.

Harry Potter's desk

the amazing detail in the Verne room

Harry Potter's chamber

Jules Verne inspired doorway

If you time it right at Sylvia Beach, the staff lets you look into the various rooms before guests check in. This was great fun as you’re able to see the Dr. Suess room, the Mark Twain, the Virginia Woolf, the F. Scott Fitzgerald, the Amy Tan, the Alice Walker, the Ernest Hemingway, the Ken Kesey, and several others including Tolkien, Shakespeare, Oscar Wilde and Jane Austen. Aside from the Jules Verne room, my favorite, I thought the Colette room was least second best and perhaps most appropriate for a honeymoon. We all have our happy places in life and this will certainly be one of mine. Who can resist the cool Pacific wind blowing through lace curtains, or the thick marine layer creating a dramatic foggy evening, or falling asleep to the sounds of ocean waves crashing upon the shore again and again and again…I think Colette herself should have been there, and perhaps in spirit she was.

Colette room/honeymoon suite

I neglected to mention that the Sylvia Beach Hotel has no televisions in their rooms, though there is definitely no shortage of reading material. They have a library that overlooks the ocean that is just perfect for the book you’ve been meaning to read. And if you’re ever in the area, I strongly suggest you sign up for their nightly dinner events. I wrote the word ‘events’ and I meant it. I had duck one night and lamb the next and perhaps four other courses done to perfection. They seat you at large tables and you meet fascinating people from all walks of life. And for shy people (like myself) conversation is easy. You just say, “Which room are you in? We’re in Colette.” These are dinners you remember. I can’t express how strongly I recommend this. I’m not a foody either, which leads me to…

breakfast at the Zeus Cafe

If you’re ever in Portland, please avoid ordering something called ‘Ninja Wings.’ Here I’m on a honeymoon vacation, and of all the items to order in such a wonderful city I had to have the ‘Ninja Wings.’ Like actual Ninjas, these wings were sightless, soundless, and unfortunately tasteless. But in Portland we did have excellent meals at an Italian place called ‘Café Mingo’ and another at ‘Café Zeus,’ where the Ham Benedict was one of the best breakfasts I’ve ever had.

stacks of books at Powell's

Miki and I are both in the bookselling business (I’m with the Tattered Cover and while she’s with History Press), so while in Portland we had to visit Powell’s Bookstore. I’m a former newsstand person and was a little disappointed with their newsstand, or lack thereof. But on the book side Powell’s is quite impressive. We spent so much time (you lose of track of time really) just browsing along endless shelves of books. I think one of the best things about bookstores is browsing with a friend or significant other, and finding yourself saying ‘I loved this book, have you read it? No, but I’ve been meaning to. Have you read this one? It’s so good.’ Technology is wonderful, but I challenge technology to come up with something better than everyday, common book banter.

In conclusion, I loved Portland, I loved the Oregon coast, and I even have a special place in my heart for Ninja Wings. I mean why were they called Ninja Wings in the first place? What was the chef thinking? Am I marked for death for ordering such a thing? What a honeymoon! I hope we make it back there some day.

Cheers!!